another cliché
travel blog

a poorly kept travel journal

Night Train to Surat Tani

Night trains are the most badass things ever. So cool.

Day Seven: Placeholder

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Day Six: Trail #7 in Khao Sok

18km hike to the falls. A little bit of swimming, a lot of sweating.

Day Five: Khao Sok National Park

4am bus from Surat Tani to Khao Sok. Canoing down the river.

Sleep. Glorious sleep.

Day Four: The Train and Floating Markets

The Train Market

This market lies along side/on top of railroad tracks. It’s shoulder to shoulder stretching for about a mile with vendors selling everything. If it’s edible, it’s here. All too mellow chime goes off just before the train come trundling through, and everyone calmly packs away their stall 30 seconds before it arrives, the train passes, then everything picks up where it left off. Weird.

Still not sure what these are. Some kind of root? Looked like curled up bugs.
Still not sure what these are. Some kind of root? Looked like curled up bugs.
Our guide didn't know the English name for these, but he pulled out his phone and google translated it to 'grinding the rabbit'. It ends up as some kind of drink
Our guide didn't know the English name for these, but he pulled out his phone and google translated it to 'grinding the rabbit'. It ends up as some kind of drink

The Floating Markets

Nothing but  chotchkies and tourists as far as the eye can see.
Nothing but  chotchkies and tourists as far as the eye can see.
Long tails are the way to get around on the water. Long boats with huge prows, an exposed engine on the back with a naked prop on the end of a long stick.
Long tails are the way to get around on the water. Long boats with huge prows, an exposed engine on the back with a naked prop on the end of a long stick.

The Floating Market sounds pretty badass, so we thought it would be cool to check out. Turns out it’s a god forsaken tourist trap, so we bailed on it in favor of coffee and people watching.

Day Three: Silom

More to come

Squarespace’s blog app was shitily architected (I had a rep explain to me that because of the architecture of their cloud, offline authoring isn’t possible. When I pointed out that humans have been writing without the internet for thousands of years, he didn’t have a good response. I am disappointed), I can only write posts when I’m online. Not say, when I’m on an eight hour train ride.

Becky, I'm as shocked as you
Becky, I'm as shocked as you
It rankles me not knowing why their fire hydrants are different.
It rankles me not knowing why their fire hydrants are different.
Rather than being made of mostly urine, the floors of Bangkok's buses are hardwood. What's up, muni.
Rather than being made of mostly urine, the floors of Bangkok's buses are hardwood. What's up, muni.
And this creepy fuck....
And this creepy fuck....

We spent the afternoon walking around Silom and the Jim Thompson house. Interesting story, not worth the time. After the House though, we hung out at the Silom mall and took stock. I wanted to do that specifically to disabuse myself of the idea that Thailand is all stalls and tuk tuks. It’s not. It’s just as modern, bright, and flashy as the west.

And this cafe wouldn’t be out of place in SF.

Organic, locally sourced and roasted cold brew. Fixies in the background. Your move, San Francisco.
Organic, locally sourced and roasted cold brew. Fixies in the background. Your move, San Francisco.
Recycled leather bound journals. Sketch books. Biodegradable how-to guides.
Recycled leather bound journals. Sketch books. Biodegradable how-to guides.
Upcycled PET bottle speaker. And Kerry.
Upcycled PET bottle speaker. And Kerry.

commentor: Cindy date: 2015-01-25 07:05:09

Ronald appears to be giving the namaste blessing with, as you noted, a creepy expression. Very mixed messages. Thanks for the posts! Sorry you can only write "live" and can’t write and then upload. How quaint and old-fashioned.

Day Two, Part II: The Civil Center and Victory Monument

I see your parking garage and raise you a reflecting pool and a moat.
I see your parking garage and raise you a reflecting pool and a moat.

Our plans caused us to overstay our free, thirty day visas, so we had to trek out to the Civil Center to get an extension. The guy on the left is King Bhumibol, who’s universally loved by everyone we’ve met. A scholar, farmer, diplomat, intellectual, and lover of both The Eagles (particularly “Hotel California”) and Bob Marley. He taught the Thai people about crop diversification, and helped the Russians further developed their agricultural practices. Putin is a big fan.

We had expected the process of extending our visas to take all afternoon, but it was surprisingly efficient. Maybe 30 minutes start to finish, despite having none of the requisite documents prepared in advance. Marinate on that, DMV.

After the Civil Center we took a bus going anywhere, and ended up at Victory Monument. Calling it a traffic circle does it a disservice. Predictably, it was huge, crowded with shops and stalls, and had all manner of food, so we checked it out.

Found this gem.

Sigh. They've gone international
Sigh. They've gone international
I'm sorry sir, you are mistaken. That is not a snack, that is a fish.
I'm sorry sir, you are mistaken. That is not a snack, that is a fish.

Day Two, Part I: Wandering Wat Pho and the Markets

Mahachulalongkornrajavidyalaya University

Someone bombed the campus with these stickers.
Someone bombed the campus with these stickers.

The university itself was a bunch of uninteresting concrete buildings running along the Chao Phraya river that separates Bangkok’s eastern and western halves.

The Fish Markets

Bangkok has an entire market dedicated to dried fish products. Everything is laid out neatly and labeled clearly but the smell is intense. Not quite bad, but definitely fishy. It was a total trip seeing food sold in such a different way than what I’m used to.

One box of fish shavings, please
One box of fish shavings, please
Flattened dried cuttlefish
Flattened dried cuttlefish
This...this made me uneasy. This and the giant rat.
This...this made me uneasy. This and the giant rat.
Some kind of fish, couldn't get a clear translation.
Some kind of fish, couldn't get a clear translation.
An entire pallet of MSG.
An entire pallet of MSG.
Outside of the fish market. This is what most of bangkok looks like.
Outside of the fish market. This is what most of bangkok looks like.

Wat Pho

One of the more famous wats in Bangkok (evidently?) it houses a massive, golden statue of the Buddha reclining (read on his death bed). The entire surrounding complex is ornately decorated and beautiful. We woke up early and happened to arrive before it was overrun by other people.

The roofs of all the buildings were lacqured tile, with each doorway surrounded with golden mirrors. For contrast, a European style clock tower peeks out in the background.
The roofs of all the buildings were lacqured tile, with each doorway surrounded with golden mirrors. For contrast, a European style clock tower peeks out in the background.
This guy had the right idea
This guy had the right idea
All the roofs!
All the roofs!
All of the gates had Chinese stone guards originally used as ballasts for junks, then used as badass motheruckers.
All of the gates had Chinese stone guards originally used as ballasts for junks, then used as badass motheruckers.
This guy...Marco Polo.
This guy...Marco Polo.
I was tempted to create a list of the top ten things in Thailand that just don't give a fuck, but I wasn't sure I could live with myself after creating a listicle, so instead, is submit to you only this: 'lol swag'
I was tempted to create a list of the top ten things in Thailand that just don't give a fuck, but I wasn't sure I could live with myself after creating a listicle, so instead, is submit to you only this: 'lol swag'
The entire hall was filled with an irritating rattling sound, as we walked around the back of the Buddha,Mae found out why: people were changing bills for coins and dropping them into about 100 alms bowls for good luck.
The entire hall was filled with an irritating rattling sound, as we walked around the back of the Buddha,Mae found out why: people were changing bills for coins and dropping them into about 100 alms bowls for good luck.
The inner courtyard was surrounded with gilded Buddha. From what I could overhear from other private tour guides, families would purchase a Buddha and have it placed in the temple as a sort of patronage. They're responsible for the upkeep, so some were in disrepair, some were shiny and new. All had nipples.
The inner courtyard was surrounded with gilded Buddha. From what I could overhear from other private tour guides, families would purchase a Buddha and have it placed in the temple as a sort of patronage. They're responsible for the upkeep, so some were in disrepair, some were shiny and new. All had nipples.
There were cats everywhere. Saw this Tom and figured out why
There were cats everywhere. Saw this Tom and figured out why
Huge. Absolutely huge. In addition to being covered in squares of gold foil not much larger than a quarter, his robes defy gravity, hanging horizontally despite his reclined posture.  His feet are inlaid with mother of pearl, depicting symbols of his life. I think. Most of the plaques were in Thai.
Huge. Absolutely huge. In addition to being covered in squares of gold foil not much larger than a quarter, his robes defy gravity, hanging horizontally despite his reclined posture.  His feet are inlaid with mother of pearl, depicting symbols of his life. I think. Most of the plaques were in Thai.

Moar Markets

Came across this badass bake shop stacked floor to ceiling with everything.
Came across this badass bake shop stacked floor to ceiling with everything.
Walking through the markets, I half expected to see people offering neural implants, stims, and all manner of cyberpunk dystopian tropes.
Walking through the markets, I half expected to see people offering neural implants, stims, and all manner of cyberpunk dystopian tropes.
But we just saw a lot of stuff wrapped in plastic
But we just saw a lot of stuff wrapped in plastic

We wandered through the flower markets, got coffee from an ‘underground’ coffee shop, it was in broad daylight, or at least as much as the markets ever see, and through China town to end up at the Royal Indian. Hole in the wall with fantastic food, they served the best palak paneer I’ve ever had.

Day One: Wandering Banglamphu

Cherry red scooter cruising down some back alley we wandered down. And terrible wiring.
Cherry red scooter cruising down some back alley we wandered down. And terrible wiring.
One power? With the Democracy Monument peeking in the background
One power? With the Democracy Monument peeking in the background
I...I can't
I...I can't
Doors....to a door shop
Doors....to a door shop
Wat Ratchanatadaram
Wat Ratchanatadaram
Kerry mugging *hard* like it's for NatGeo/she had no idea I was taking this
Kerry mugging *hard* like it's for NatGeo/she had no idea I was taking this
Khao San night market. After about 8pm, Khao San loses any charm it may have and becomes an unmitigated shitshow
Khao San night market. After about 8pm, Khao San loses any charm it may have and becomes an unmitigated shitshow

commentor: Rob date:2015-01-21 11:49:35

More updates!

commentor: Elaine date: 2015-01-19 01:48:00

More Cow Bell!!! (After all, it’s Day Four, your time.)
Loved your Day One post. Wiring’s so-o-o-o scary, though. Glad you opted not to swim.

Layover at Narita

I watched a young woman dressed in a smartly tailored uniform stride through the restricted access door and up to the glass. Smiling, she faced the blubberous plane as it clumsily backed out of the gate. The woman waved and bowed towards…who? A coworker? Lover? Her most recent charge? Watching it felt wrong, like ogling a couple in the park. The barriers between them made the small act feel terribly intimate.

Before I could look away, she turned away and saw (caught?) me looking. I expected her to blush. Instead, she fixed her smile on me and walked back out the door. I went back to watching sumo and understanding none of it.